Mt Rosa Tour 2014 – 9 summits, 5 unsummits

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Mt Rosa Tour 2014 – 9 summit, 5 unsummit

14 days Alpine mountaineering – Mt Rosa Tour, winter + snow + whiteout condition.

 

Summit:

Piramide Vincent (4215 m)

Balmenhorn (4167 m)

Ludwigshöhe (4341 m)

Parrotspitze (4432 m)

Signalkuppe (4556 m)

Schwarzhorn (4321 m)

Il Naso (4272 m)

Felikhorn (4174 m)

Castor (4226 m)

 

Abandon Peaks (because of bad weather /condition)

Liskamm (4527m)

Zumsteinspitze (4563m)

Pollux (4091m)

Breithorn (4106m)

Rimpfischhorn (4199m)

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I still remember one of my climbing partners, who keep asking me same question every climbs.

“Wilson, what is life? Why we challenge the mountain all the time? Why you like adventure?”

At that time, I am very young and I do not know how I can answer the questions.

One day, he was killed in one climbing spot we discover in Hong Kong.

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During this trip, I met him again in the dream. And, he keeps asking me “Wilson, why you risk your life in high mountains?”

 

But this time, I have an answer. “Because I would like to discovery myself more!”

 

Indeed, we encountered a number of unfavorable conditions – whiteout, avalanche, rain, wind, sun, deep snow with personnel issues. But, we still manage at least return him in a piece and summit some peak. I love the Alps very much. I wish I am able to stay in the region forever. However, my skin, national, language level limited myself to be a partner of edelweiss.

 

On 20.JUL.2014. I took the 30 Euro train from Germany to Milano…I realized I do not have been Italy for 5 years already. Crazy Milano…. Once I arrive train station, I go to check the train schedule for entering the mountain. Next to me there is a theft to steal one lady wallet when she was buying the ticket and run away………Then, I went back to the hotel I booked… the manager gave me a single room and told me this is a double room for 2 persons…… I will not return Italy anymore. But, the pizza is great.

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In this trip, I feel very pleasure that I am able to be partner with my teacher, who taught my basic mountain craft in Hong Kong. Very good partner! I realized that Good partner better than summit, No partner is better than bad partner. I enjoy this partnership very much. Although I talk more than normal (usually, I do not talk often in the mountain and nature because I love very silent nature very much), I truly felt that I am sharing the best thing with my friends indeed. I wish our partnership on the mountain can keep forever.

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During this trip, I discovered that my physical body becomes weaker than before. I cannot reach back my peak performance same as last year. Headache, walking slowly, breathe harder. Although my skill has a bit improved, my base strength is still having a lot of room of improvement. However, it is a first season mountaineering. I still have 2 more time to go up high!

 

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On 27.AUg.2014, I have a dream about 3 sperm whales after my very nightmare 15 hr transverse Alps experience. At 8 am, we leave the refuge and summit Castor 4226 m easily…..However, when we descend, super strong wind plus whiteout condition do not allow us to descend to one emergency Bivo within 4 km. Then, we stop on the 70 degree slope with my Luxe tent shelter for 2-3 hrs. My face, toes…..basically everything is frozen…..Therefore, I push our-self to go down by 10m belay 10m descend. But, I was very unlucky, I hit the edge of the crevasses more than 3 times..damn. we spend all the physical energy to descend to the safety platform. After 2-3 hr tired walking on the soft-fresh snow, we see the bivo, where is 70 m on the snow edge….Damn, I spend my backup power to climb up the 80-90 degree snow….Unlucky, I hit the crevasses again when I near the bivo within 20m high…..then, descend again and climbing up again…….arrive the bivo at 23 pm…Still alive..But my mind is empty and cold! Why I am still alive? I only make this pic in the whole day….my partner descend in the without condition on the 70 degree slope with heavy glacierized landscape – damn nightmare

 

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Facing Zermatt, Matterhorn, and Mt Rosa. I still cannot believe that I have been the top of the mountains. However, in season, the winter is still very long in high up mountain. Therefore, there are no much people to go up yet. However, next year is 150 year for Matterhorn. Maybe I have to climb up second time.

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Time to camp with the Alps is my best moment in the Alps. I love to smell the flowers to fall asleep. Suddenly, one black-face sheep come and find his lost way. Very cute moment to let me know that the mountain take care me very much.

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I miss the day on mountain with my good partner very much.

Good partners in the mountains are the best pleasure thing in the life. However, the good time is always too short

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